The train took a bit over an hour to traverse the distance from Muenchen to Regensburg. I had thought this place would be the most interesting town in Germany, and certainly the most interesting I'd ever seen.
Firstly, it is so old. And looks it! In some ways a bustling modern town of about 150, 000 but still it can't help but reflect days gone by. It has been built to last, and so far, has.
The streets are cobblestone, the houses old structures with old windows, roofs and doors. Many powerful groups and families have had some influence on the town's development, from the Romans to the Tunis and Taxis families. The latter had had hunting grounds in the area, which now form a huge parkland. The current Pope, Benedict XV1, has strong ties with Regensburg, having been the Chancellor the University amongst many other connections.
The hop on-off tram service that takes you around the town is superb...every carriage caters for a different language group, and there were four carriages, I think. After the trip, I purchased a DVD of the town, and sat drinking coffee, and admiring the view of the amazing Dom.
Lying on the Donau River, the town has had access to many natural. Modern shops abound in the towns streets and malls, but there seems to be a distinct lack of garishness often associated with the modernisation of old towns.
I had been trying to contact my internet friend Reimar, a resident, but found this task daunting, so gave up and took a room in the Hotel Karmeliten. Reimar and I caught up later in the early evening, going for a walk around the streets nearby, and eventually stopping at a well-known Bavarian restaurant for the local fare and beer.
Tired after another long day, I didn't find it hard to get to sleep.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Wednesday 13.1.11....WIEN
Regensburg was a hard town to leave...I think it is the most extraordinary place I have ever been. Not that I have been many places until my 55th year, almost. Anyway, leave it I did, with the feeling of absolute awe from looking up at the spires of the Dom still in my thoughts. The wonderful bells...indicating the hour by the appropriate number of strikes and the quarter hours by one and three strikes, the half hour by two. The slow-moving Danube. The colour, atmosphere, the life of a great city.
But, move on I did. Taking advice from a friend living in Regensburg, I decided against boating down the Donau (Danube) and instead went fot the quick option of catching a speedy ICE train from Regensburg to Wien. Met an Australian on board who was a young chef from Brisbane who had been told to take time off, and a lovely German lady called Claudia. We shared stories of our lives in German and English, laughed a lot, and the four hour trip did not seem long at all.
I arrived in Wien (Vienna) at about 1.30pm, and immediately saw that this was going to be another impressive town. Old buildings showing a variety of styles, people everywhere, and I thought it would be easy to find an internet cafe where I hoped people had responded to my late news that I would be arriving in Wien. Perhaps it was a bit of a warm day, and I was carrying too much after a long trip, but I couldn't be bothered with the email responses, and just booked into a hotel...as is my style, just across from the Wien West Hbf. Once I had splashed myself liberally with cold water, I checked the emails, and sure enough, Zsuzsanna and Gus wanted to meet me at 5pm. My first thought was that I didn't want to go anywhere, because I was quite tired...but knew I would regret it if I did not meet Susanna, who had been an MSN and Skype friend for some time. So, I followed her directions, and was there first at the Herrengasse station. Gus soon joined us, and we began wandering through laneways and streets, with both Gus and Susanna explaining what each building was, its significance, etc. I hope I didn't seem rude, but I was too tired to take it all in. In any case, we soon boarded the city Hop on-off bus, and took a journey that lasted about an hour around Vienna. I sat next to Gus, an amiable big bloke who confided in me, when I asked what he did apart from his artistic/computer projects that what he did was 'either, immoral , illegal, or fattening!' I am sure that that is a common Austrian line.
When the interesting tour finished, we set off for a restaurant Susan had picked, which served the hugest wiener schnitzel imaginable. Very nice too. After that, we set off on our separate ways, after Susanna had ensured that I knew the way home. She needn;t have bothered as I had ages ago got into the habit of asking people questions about directions, my own sense in this area being quite poor.
I got back to the hotel on this fairly hot night, spoke to people on MSN briefly, and then went to sleep.
But, move on I did. Taking advice from a friend living in Regensburg, I decided against boating down the Donau (Danube) and instead went fot the quick option of catching a speedy ICE train from Regensburg to Wien. Met an Australian on board who was a young chef from Brisbane who had been told to take time off, and a lovely German lady called Claudia. We shared stories of our lives in German and English, laughed a lot, and the four hour trip did not seem long at all.
I arrived in Wien (Vienna) at about 1.30pm, and immediately saw that this was going to be another impressive town. Old buildings showing a variety of styles, people everywhere, and I thought it would be easy to find an internet cafe where I hoped people had responded to my late news that I would be arriving in Wien. Perhaps it was a bit of a warm day, and I was carrying too much after a long trip, but I couldn't be bothered with the email responses, and just booked into a hotel...as is my style, just across from the Wien West Hbf. Once I had splashed myself liberally with cold water, I checked the emails, and sure enough, Zsuzsanna and Gus wanted to meet me at 5pm. My first thought was that I didn't want to go anywhere, because I was quite tired...but knew I would regret it if I did not meet Susanna, who had been an MSN and Skype friend for some time. So, I followed her directions, and was there first at the Herrengasse station. Gus soon joined us, and we began wandering through laneways and streets, with both Gus and Susanna explaining what each building was, its significance, etc. I hope I didn't seem rude, but I was too tired to take it all in. In any case, we soon boarded the city Hop on-off bus, and took a journey that lasted about an hour around Vienna. I sat next to Gus, an amiable big bloke who confided in me, when I asked what he did apart from his artistic/computer projects that what he did was 'either, immoral , illegal, or fattening!' I am sure that that is a common Austrian line.
When the interesting tour finished, we set off for a restaurant Susan had picked, which served the hugest wiener schnitzel imaginable. Very nice too. After that, we set off on our separate ways, after Susanna had ensured that I knew the way home. She needn;t have bothered as I had ages ago got into the habit of asking people questions about directions, my own sense in this area being quite poor.
I got back to the hotel on this fairly hot night, spoke to people on MSN briefly, and then went to sleep.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Sunday, 10.7.2011 Munich
Had a great breakfast at the Hotel Excelsior. Tried to speak to an old gent, but I think his response was that he was Swedish, or that he spoke only 'Schaebish' which I believe is the Bavarian dialect.
Saw a woman by herself, asked if she would speak to me and she did. She was on her way to Austria to walk in the mountains. As usual, with people I have approached she was friendly.
On the Munich tour bus, I took the top deck...no roof, exposed to the sun so I wasn't going to stay there long.
A beautiful day after the downpour last night. Sunny and mild, blue/grey sky. Not many people about, as it is the weekend, and it is German law that commercial businesses (other than cafes, restaurants, etc) stay closed on weekends. Also a law in Munich for the past 8 yrs is that no commercial building can be higher than seven storeys high, so that the view of the beautiful old churches can not be blocked. And, of course, Munich's name is derived from the initial founders, a bunch of monks...Muenchen means 'monks', and a symbolic monk still appears on the Munich crest or coat of arms.
I have been getting plenty of compliments on my German here. "Langsam, aber sehr gut" (slow but very good) responded the friendly waiter in the hotel at breakfast, when I asked. And, separately, "Your German is very good" said the adorable Bayerische girl at reception. I bet they say that to all the people who try to stammer a flow of words in the local tongue!
On the hop on, hop off bus, I got off at the famous Marienplatz. It has beautiful gardens and architecture. Sun, church bells, bikes,huge historic edifices, rose gardens and hedges and beer (in a HUGE glass!) Ich moechte ein anderes trinken!
In this Marienplatz Bier/Kaffee Garten they have an orchestra every May for a month playing both old and new favourites.
No doubt, on an organised bus tour of the city, you see only the best...I don't mind!
I tried to speak to the people at the next table - a couple in their 30s, perhaps. But, like me, they were 'Auslaender' and only in Germany for the weekend, having come from France. So we spoke in English for a while until I returned to my table, and despite the influence of the beer, managed to order a 'spaghetti primavera und Kaffee'. I think I could have stayed there all day
but decided I would rejoin the tour...eventually!
I think the Marienplatz must be what God does for his holidays!
While still sitting, enjoying the Sonne und Bier, a woman's voice could be heard...both operatic and lilting. I never thought I'd use those two words together (especially after the enormous beers ... I couldn't really remember what the word 'lilting' meant!
The trees still stand, the sun shines, the spaghetti compares poorly to Villawood creations, but I'm not complaining. I could have died right at this point...though not wishing it upon myself...and have been happy.
I have ordered another coffee and take my midday tablet, for somethings must remain constant, wherever you are, whatever state of bliss you have achieved on the road to Nirvana.
Back on the bus...to city or castle? Ich weiss nicht! Und sorge mich daran auch nilcht!
Maximilllianstrasse is where all the big names perform in Munich. The bus commentator kept repeating Michael Jackson's name as if he were the only one big star to perform there ... maybe he is/was, but doubt it.
Asked someone if I could speak with them, but was politely refused. Sunny, not hot, but best to stay in the shade. Walked from Maximillianstrassse until I felt lost. Sat down at another cafe to consult my maps, and have just water ... more expensive than coffee, I later found. Did some walking around the streets, I think I was in the artistic area of Munich, or perhaps it is like that all over. Waited for my bus, and started speaking to some Brazilians...I used my severely hobbled Spanish, and despite the fact that they speak Portugese, they understood me. By the time I got off the bus, I had done the circuit twice, and still not seen the castle that had been promised, I left the bus but not before complimenting the commentator. She was clear, interesting in informative in two languages deutsch und englisch, and had the timbre of Li Li Chin! I complimented her on her magnificent delivery. Everyone else clapped her at the end of the ride. She took it in her stride.
Saw a woman by herself, asked if she would speak to me and she did. She was on her way to Austria to walk in the mountains. As usual, with people I have approached she was friendly.
On the Munich tour bus, I took the top deck...no roof, exposed to the sun so I wasn't going to stay there long.
A beautiful day after the downpour last night. Sunny and mild, blue/grey sky. Not many people about, as it is the weekend, and it is German law that commercial businesses (other than cafes, restaurants, etc) stay closed on weekends. Also a law in Munich for the past 8 yrs is that no commercial building can be higher than seven storeys high, so that the view of the beautiful old churches can not be blocked. And, of course, Munich's name is derived from the initial founders, a bunch of monks...Muenchen means 'monks', and a symbolic monk still appears on the Munich crest or coat of arms.
I have been getting plenty of compliments on my German here. "Langsam, aber sehr gut" (slow but very good) responded the friendly waiter in the hotel at breakfast, when I asked. And, separately, "Your German is very good" said the adorable Bayerische girl at reception. I bet they say that to all the people who try to stammer a flow of words in the local tongue!
On the hop on, hop off bus, I got off at the famous Marienplatz. It has beautiful gardens and architecture. Sun, church bells, bikes,huge historic edifices, rose gardens and hedges and beer (in a HUGE glass!) Ich moechte ein anderes trinken!
In this Marienplatz Bier/Kaffee Garten they have an orchestra every May for a month playing both old and new favourites.
No doubt, on an organised bus tour of the city, you see only the best...I don't mind!
I tried to speak to the people at the next table - a couple in their 30s, perhaps. But, like me, they were 'Auslaender' and only in Germany for the weekend, having come from France. So we spoke in English for a while until I returned to my table, and despite the influence of the beer, managed to order a 'spaghetti primavera und Kaffee'. I think I could have stayed there all day
but decided I would rejoin the tour...eventually!
I think the Marienplatz must be what God does for his holidays!
While still sitting, enjoying the Sonne und Bier, a woman's voice could be heard...both operatic and lilting. I never thought I'd use those two words together (especially after the enormous beers ... I couldn't really remember what the word 'lilting' meant!
The trees still stand, the sun shines, the spaghetti compares poorly to Villawood creations, but I'm not complaining. I could have died right at this point...though not wishing it upon myself...and have been happy.
I have ordered another coffee and take my midday tablet, for somethings must remain constant, wherever you are, whatever state of bliss you have achieved on the road to Nirvana.
Back on the bus...to city or castle? Ich weiss nicht! Und sorge mich daran auch nilcht!
Maximilllianstrasse is where all the big names perform in Munich. The bus commentator kept repeating Michael Jackson's name as if he were the only one big star to perform there ... maybe he is/was, but doubt it.
Asked someone if I could speak with them, but was politely refused. Sunny, not hot, but best to stay in the shade. Walked from Maximillianstrassse until I felt lost. Sat down at another cafe to consult my maps, and have just water ... more expensive than coffee, I later found. Did some walking around the streets, I think I was in the artistic area of Munich, or perhaps it is like that all over. Waited for my bus, and started speaking to some Brazilians...I used my severely hobbled Spanish, and despite the fact that they speak Portugese, they understood me. By the time I got off the bus, I had done the circuit twice, and still not seen the castle that had been promised, I left the bus but not before complimenting the commentator. She was clear, interesting in informative in two languages deutsch und englisch, and had the timbre of Li Li Chin! I complimented her on her magnificent delivery. Everyone else clapped her at the end of the ride. She took it in her stride.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
To Munich, Saturday 9.7.11
This morning I awoke at 7.05am in Feldberg. Checked emails, shaved and decided for the first time since arriving in Germany that I felt decent enough without showering. I was only going to breakfast alone, anyway. So, I Fruehstuecked on rolls with creamy butter , buttery cheese, or some delicious something in-between. The strawberries were wonderful. Und the coffee schmechlich!
A far cry from the meal I had had the evening before at a restaurant in Feldberg (one of the few institutions open beyond 1pm). It was a fried pancake of sorts with diced mushroom, bacon and onions in the middle. It wasn't great, but the beer that washed it down was.
Anyway, back to today - I chatted with Patrick and Utte, the other two Aussies at the Gaesthaus for more than an hour before packing. They were very accommodating and I fully intend to remain in contact with them - maybe I will go to Darwin to visit them one day. I paid my dues to Ingrid, the owner, and walked the few minutes to the station to make the train just in time.
German trains come on time - it is true! To the minute! I haven't seen any vandalism yet, the ticket collectors are friendly and the trains zoom along. Like right now, as I watch a moving motley panorama of old cottages, mountains, trees, small townships. The architecture is fabulous - straight out of the fairytale books.
I was going to head for Nueremberg and thence Berlin and then south again - but on the train from Feldberg to Freiburg I had an epiphany - to make this a 'south German' trip only. So, Berlin and even Nueremberg towards the middle get the flick! This way I can allow myself a little more time to bask in the expected beauties of Oesterreich die Schweiz und Spanien. And not forgetting, of course, my ongoing love affair with the old, old town of Regensburg, not too far from Muenchen.
The trains have stewards, like on planes. I just bought myself another coffee, thoroughly confusing myself in the transaction. I tried to offhand all my euro cents (the coins) found I didn't have quite enough to pay, so paid by a 10E note and gained more change to weigh me down!
I expected German people to be a bit stiff, or wary, like an animal wounded. Nothing could have been further from the reality. Nearly everyone has been incredibly gracious and accommodating, even to the point of allowing me to say my piece in German (when they probably could have done it much better for me, and in half the time, in English!)
Karlsruhe should be 19 minutes away - I will check my watch when we arrive - I am sure it will say 2.10pm, the ETA. Or perhaps they don't have ETA's here - just 'arrival times'. Knowns, not expectations.
People are sleeping on these very comfortable trains. They are called ICE trains. I was trying to work out what the German acronym could be, until someone told me it stood for 'Inter Continental Express'! Still, I somehow miss the 'clickety-clack' so synonymous with Sydney trains of my youth. Though I don't really miss the lurching from one side of the carriage to the other. And air conditioning. Now wouldn't that have made many a train ride to uni every day in the 70s so much more bearable?
Even the PA announcements on the train 'auf deutsch' - they are much easier to understand than the garbled nonsense than the garbled nonsense that our underpaid European brethren still struggling to learn English could provide us back then.
Maybe I am just being naiive - but in the week since arriving in Germany, I really can't say that I have recognised anyone as being drunk or influenced by any other delusional substances. I think I heard one car horn in one week. I have heard church bells more often than raised voices. Real bells, too...not just a CD that the rector has programmed for every half hour. For that seems to be the regularity of their ringing. And on Friday, at midday, it wouldn't stop...must have been the Angelus, I think.
I finally arrived in Munich, after changing trains at Karlsruhe and Stuttgart, walked through the impressive Hbf (Hauptbahnhof....main station) and, feeling tired, decided to ask a taxi driver to take me to a cheap hotel 'Hotel Rosengarten', that had been recommended. The taxi driver couldn't find it in the directory, so rang base. They didn't know of it. So I asked for any cheap hotel, in German, at which point the driver asked me to get out! Fair enough, I did as asked, collecting my bags, and got into the one behind. The same routine. This driver turned off his motor being opening the door and escorting me out. Either they mistook my German, or I did ... I don't know what I said. I thought I had asked for a cheap hotel. Perhaps they cannot respond to such vague directions.
So I walked 50yards to the Hotel Excelsior and it is here that I will spend the night.
A far cry from the meal I had had the evening before at a restaurant in Feldberg (one of the few institutions open beyond 1pm). It was a fried pancake of sorts with diced mushroom, bacon and onions in the middle. It wasn't great, but the beer that washed it down was.
Anyway, back to today - I chatted with Patrick and Utte, the other two Aussies at the Gaesthaus for more than an hour before packing. They were very accommodating and I fully intend to remain in contact with them - maybe I will go to Darwin to visit them one day. I paid my dues to Ingrid, the owner, and walked the few minutes to the station to make the train just in time.
German trains come on time - it is true! To the minute! I haven't seen any vandalism yet, the ticket collectors are friendly and the trains zoom along. Like right now, as I watch a moving motley panorama of old cottages, mountains, trees, small townships. The architecture is fabulous - straight out of the fairytale books.
I was going to head for Nueremberg and thence Berlin and then south again - but on the train from Feldberg to Freiburg I had an epiphany - to make this a 'south German' trip only. So, Berlin and even Nueremberg towards the middle get the flick! This way I can allow myself a little more time to bask in the expected beauties of Oesterreich die Schweiz und Spanien. And not forgetting, of course, my ongoing love affair with the old, old town of Regensburg, not too far from Muenchen.
The trains have stewards, like on planes. I just bought myself another coffee, thoroughly confusing myself in the transaction. I tried to offhand all my euro cents (the coins) found I didn't have quite enough to pay, so paid by a 10E note and gained more change to weigh me down!
I expected German people to be a bit stiff, or wary, like an animal wounded. Nothing could have been further from the reality. Nearly everyone has been incredibly gracious and accommodating, even to the point of allowing me to say my piece in German (when they probably could have done it much better for me, and in half the time, in English!)
Karlsruhe should be 19 minutes away - I will check my watch when we arrive - I am sure it will say 2.10pm, the ETA. Or perhaps they don't have ETA's here - just 'arrival times'. Knowns, not expectations.
People are sleeping on these very comfortable trains. They are called ICE trains. I was trying to work out what the German acronym could be, until someone told me it stood for 'Inter Continental Express'! Still, I somehow miss the 'clickety-clack' so synonymous with Sydney trains of my youth. Though I don't really miss the lurching from one side of the carriage to the other. And air conditioning. Now wouldn't that have made many a train ride to uni every day in the 70s so much more bearable?
Even the PA announcements on the train 'auf deutsch' - they are much easier to understand than the garbled nonsense than the garbled nonsense that our underpaid European brethren still struggling to learn English could provide us back then.
Maybe I am just being naiive - but in the week since arriving in Germany, I really can't say that I have recognised anyone as being drunk or influenced by any other delusional substances. I think I heard one car horn in one week. I have heard church bells more often than raised voices. Real bells, too...not just a CD that the rector has programmed for every half hour. For that seems to be the regularity of their ringing. And on Friday, at midday, it wouldn't stop...must have been the Angelus, I think.
I finally arrived in Munich, after changing trains at Karlsruhe and Stuttgart, walked through the impressive Hbf (Hauptbahnhof....main station) and, feeling tired, decided to ask a taxi driver to take me to a cheap hotel 'Hotel Rosengarten', that had been recommended. The taxi driver couldn't find it in the directory, so rang base. They didn't know of it. So I asked for any cheap hotel, in German, at which point the driver asked me to get out! Fair enough, I did as asked, collecting my bags, and got into the one behind. The same routine. This driver turned off his motor being opening the door and escorting me out. Either they mistook my German, or I did ... I don't know what I said. I thought I had asked for a cheap hotel. Perhaps they cannot respond to such vague directions.
So I walked 50yards to the Hotel Excelsior and it is here that I will spend the night.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Frankfurt, Freiburg and Felberg
The best time to see German cities of the south west is on weekends. For nothing will get in your way...cars are nowhere, businesses aren't open, joggers are just enough to say 'morgen' to (though joggers seem a particularly unresponsive bunch!) After a respectable hour, though, you can wander into a Kaffee Haus and drink wonderful coffee along with Apfelstrudel, or whatever else in the bakery/cake line takes your fancy.
Frankfurt is a wonderful place. You are immediately struck by the architecture. Much of it is old in style, or rebuilt in such a fashion, but even many of the contemporary buildings are quite stylish. Sorry to prattle on about buildings, but they are really lovely, and what else is there to do on a weekend in Frankfurt but look at buildings? Well...you could go to one of the many art galleries and museums...they, at least, are open. Or take a boat cruise down the River Main. Or, best of all, of course, you could sit yourself down at a table in a Cafe, and look for an old lady to speak to. Why an old lady? Well, they like talking...and in German, and slowly, so that you have a decent chance of keeping abreast of the conversation.
Frankfurt certainly has the history and Platzen and classic Germanic style houses. But it is Freiburg down the track a bit south that really takes die Kueche. An amazing large town with all mod cons and buildings that look as though they were built hundreds of years ago...but which have probably been erected since the war, since the town was flattened in 1945. 'Alles war kaput', as they say.
Bicycles are everywhere. I was convinced they had one of those clever schemes going where you can borrow a bike at one bike station, ride it to where you want to to, and leave it for someone else. Someone told me that this was not the case, but this is one occasion when I am going to trust my own first impressions. The only problem with Freiburg, lovely city that it is, is trying to find a place that sells German food! Being so close to the borders, it is heavily influenced by its surroundings which must explain why every second shop is a pizza joint of some description!
Freiburg has a very nice feel to it, which might explain that nearly everyone you speak to was born there and has never moved!
Frankfurt is a wonderful place. You are immediately struck by the architecture. Much of it is old in style, or rebuilt in such a fashion, but even many of the contemporary buildings are quite stylish. Sorry to prattle on about buildings, but they are really lovely, and what else is there to do on a weekend in Frankfurt but look at buildings? Well...you could go to one of the many art galleries and museums...they, at least, are open. Or take a boat cruise down the River Main. Or, best of all, of course, you could sit yourself down at a table in a Cafe, and look for an old lady to speak to. Why an old lady? Well, they like talking...and in German, and slowly, so that you have a decent chance of keeping abreast of the conversation.
Frankfurt certainly has the history and Platzen and classic Germanic style houses. But it is Freiburg down the track a bit south that really takes die Kueche. An amazing large town with all mod cons and buildings that look as though they were built hundreds of years ago...but which have probably been erected since the war, since the town was flattened in 1945. 'Alles war kaput', as they say.
Bicycles are everywhere. I was convinced they had one of those clever schemes going where you can borrow a bike at one bike station, ride it to where you want to to, and leave it for someone else. Someone told me that this was not the case, but this is one occasion when I am going to trust my own first impressions. The only problem with Freiburg, lovely city that it is, is trying to find a place that sells German food! Being so close to the borders, it is heavily influenced by its surroundings which must explain why every second shop is a pizza joint of some description!
Freiburg has a very nice feel to it, which might explain that nearly everyone you speak to was born there and has never moved!
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